Monday, 29 April 2013
A kind of excited rant about cinematography and my passions and frustrations. Hence any awful grammar
Thinking about my degree show
Another offer for work has left me quite excited about the possibilities when leaving university
Film update. Waiting for actresses and actors becoming frustrating
Film update. Poster being made
Anyway going back to the original point I wished to make which was the poster design. I have employed an illustrator friend to take on this role who’s ability I greatly trust and given him the loose idea I wanted for the poster. Which was a very simple idea of somebodies face with a mute sign for a mouth. I also asked him to throw some ideas my way after I sent him the script and development work and asked him to riff some ideas. One of the ideas he came back with which I am very enthusiastic about is the idea of the mouth being ripped away as from a paper and the name of the film being revealed which I am very excited about seeing how this turns out. I am just waiting for the head shots of our male actor so I can sent it to him so I can design the poster using the look of the lead actor. Which I hope I will get soon so we can start to get on.
Film update. Costume and dress
Film update. I have somebody writing a score finally
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFO0cHptGBM&feature=youtube_gdata_player
A link to some of his work
Film update. Interviewer and production still shooter on board
Film update and location for it
Tuesday, 9 April 2013
light meter issues and zone metering
Sunday, 7 April 2013
It was expensive but worth it
Sunday, 31 March 2013
Studying contrast ratios light metering, dynamic range, the sekonic l-758 cine and hollywood pin up portraits
I have been studying contrast or lighting ratios a lot lately to figure out the best lighting conditions for my film one of the things I've observed was that film noir, films use a high contrast ratio. So I would say I'm still learning how to achieve it but I believe I understand it in its simplest form. So from my understanding it works as such. If for example the key (main) light is equal to the the fill light (the filling light) the ratio would be 1:1 to do this I would read the light from the key light with the fill light off and get the aperture measurement and then do the same for the fill light. A 1:1 would give a very flat look which is something i don't want. The way to change this is to diffuse or move the fill light back. Using an example from things I've studied if the initial readings were both f8.0 then to achieve a 1:2 ratio the fill light would have to be f5.6 which is a full stop open from f8.0 and therefore the key light is double the fill light (with every stop up or down the amount of light is either double or half) meaning the ratio is 1:2. Then if the fill light was to be moved down another stop because the light has been moved back or diffused more then the fill light would have to be at f4.0 this means the key light is 4 times stronger then the fill light (or double the amount if shooting at 1:2 contrast ratio. So applying that to attain a 1:8 contrast ratio we would move the fill light so the aperture we have to set is f2.8 as this is one full stop down from f4.0. However in modern cameras we have 1/3 of a stop aperture settings which makes the calculations harder and something I haven't figured out yet. The next thing I have learnt from studying this is that we would use an incident reading taking into consideration all the light hitting the subject. The issue is then what can the cameras dynamic range capture this is the difference between under and overexposed that the camera can capture without losing detail. This has been near impossible to find for my camera. and this is important is I am metering for incident reading which takes into consideration all the light but could result in areas being lost if shooting a contrast ratio of 1:8 that I would want. I would prefer to use a spot meter reading to meter for the area I want to be properly exposed and allow the dark areas to be dark and the light areas to be light to achieve the look I want. Which I think will fit better with the silent movie and hollywood pin up look of the era I want to try and replicate. This is something I will look into more and also find a way of spot metering without the sekonic l-758 cine light meter that I would love but can't afford
I have added some pics of looks I would like to replicate and also of the sekonic l-758 cine light meter









